Tongariro Alpine Crossing: New Zealand's best hike

The alpine crossing, seen from the road

It seems that no matter which New Zealand back country  hut you stay in, the conversation involving 'the best' great walk always crops up and so far the majority have said the Tongariro Northern Circuit is the one. Just as winter has started to show, we arrived at Whakapapa and the start of one of our best NZ hikes.

Mt Ngauruhoe from the start

The Tongariro National Park, was NZ's first national park and the worlds fourth. The land was gifted to the people of NZ in 1887 from the local tribe Ngati Tuwharetoa, to preserve the areas spiritual significance, during the sale of land patches after the land wars. The park is made up of some of NZ's most active Volcanoes; Mt Ruapehu 2797m, Mt Ngauruhoe 2287m, Mt Tongariro 1968m and Te Mari 1739m. Capitalising on this unique landscape, the Department Of Conservation (DOC) have created one of NZ's most popular day walks and possibly made their best 'Great Walk'.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, is without a doubt one of NZ's most hiked trail. It's got volcanoes, crater's, colourful lakes, it doesn't drop below a thousand metres and has easy transport links, who wouldn't want to explore this fascinating area. An extension to this popular tramp, a 43.2k circumnavigation of Mt Ngauruhoe makes up one of the three great walks on North Island, labeled the Tongariro Northern Circuit.

Walking the 'ditch'

Basing ourselves at the tiny alpine village of Whakapapa (pronounced f-u-k-a-pa-pa I kid you not!), meant we had some flexibility in our planning on which way round to go and more importantly, we had up to date weather to make our decision on when to leave. Luckily a weather window was on the horizon, and after one very autumnal night we were leaving under clear blue skies.

Sunset from the hut

Mt Ngauruhoe (Doom) erupting star's

Clear skies and bright star's

Surprisingly, our first day on the tramp that has been described as the best NZ has to offer, we had nothing to write home about. Eight and a half kilometres of sub alpine shrub, and an eroded path. The ranger at Mangatepopo hut summarised the section figuratively as 'the ditch'.

Having only spent three hours walking, our first day was sunny, chilled and filled with excitement after chatting to folk that had been to the towering summit of Mt Ngauruhoe that day. Lucy and me were primed and ready for the best forecasted weather day in the week. We were going to conquer are first active volcano and we were going to get stunning views.

Waking to low cloud changed everything.

Setting off from the hut, walking towards the seemingly lowering cloud, our hopes had dropped almost all the way out. With the rangers 'we don't get cloud inversions round here' ringing in our heads, we glumly made our way up the notoriously steep devils staircase. In the cloud, with the mass of day walkers we stood, pondering whether the summit would be worth the effort. We of course decided that standing on top of the film set of The Lord Of The Rings Mt Doom would be worth the effort, even if we wouldn't get any views. So we joined the steep path towards the cloud hidden cone which we had spent the last few days admiring from a distance.

Walking in the cloud

Ten minutes from the path junction, it happened. The cloud thinned, visibility improved and then, boom. There it was, the 2287m Mt Ngauruhoe. The cloud seemed to drift in and out of thickness around the base of the mountain, but the middle slopes and summit remained clear of any cloud. We were going to get view's. This enlightenment gave Lucy and me unknown energy and the steep, loose scree and ridge above seemed to fly by. Soon enough we were standing in snow and gazing out across the cloud inversion towards Mt Taranaki, Mt Ruapehu and Lake Taupo. A truly amazing sight. With the emotional high of the stunning summit and steep scree, the descent passed in almost an instance.

Mid slopes of Mt Ngauruhoe

Summit ridge of Mt Tongariro

Lucy walking past a steam vent near the summit

Mt Ruapehu above the cloud inversion

Summit selfie ( with the lucky duck)

Soon after joining the main trail again, the track ascends a ridge along south crater and reaches its highest point away from the summit side trips. Here a sign points in the direction of Mt Tongariro. Again we were facing the decision whether to head for the summit which will probably be in the clouds, and of course we had to go. This time however, we were granted a meeting from a very cool individual.

Chillin' with a local near the summit of Mt Tongariro

A fella who happened to be doing the Northern Circuit had made a very impressive snowman near the summit. Top effort.

South crater

Emerald lakes

Back on the main trail we were transported to another world, massive red craters with a lick of snow, long twisting ridges and small dotted volcanic lakes, aptly named Emerald lakes. Walking past the steaming lakes with sulphur burning an eggy smell into our nostrils, we couldn't escape the feeling we were in a massive volcanic crater. Unfortunately, the cloud had stayed and we weren't granted the views of the surrounding peaks of the central crater.

Descending towards the hut

The last section to the hut confirmed that we had left earth and were wondering on the surface of Mars. Black basalt pinnacles spaced by reddish coloured pebbles, with only a handful of hardy plants clinging onto life in this barren land. We truly thought and discussed the possibility of turning a corner and coming face to face with a group of Jawa's from the Star Wars planet Tatooine.

Walking on another world

Having our last night in cozy Oturere hut, was a perfect end to our back country hut experiences. Although the small hut had twenty five bodies squeezed into it's cramped living space, our experience was filled with classic hut pleasantries. We had the classic kiwi hospitality, story sharing and friendly chats about anything and everything. A pleasant closure in our experience of a brilliant hut system.

Mt Nguarahoe from the hut

Our last day was spent descending back down on to planet earth. First through the volcanic deserts, and then into the sub and bush of the typical NZ back country. We made sure to stop by the amazing new Waihohonu hut which was nothing short of a mansion compared to the previous one. The rest of the day flowed by as we walked under a blanket of grey, mountain shrouding clouds. Although on a clear day the hike over the moor like terrain would have given surrounding panoramic views, ours seemed to transport us back to memories of the dull Yorkshire Moors that seemed to drag a bit. We were glad when the roof of our hostel for the night appeared over the shrubs and we knew we had finished our last multiday NZ adventure.

Looking back across the moorland

Lucy and I both agreed that even with the less than ideal weather Tongariro Northern Circuit was one of our best NZ adventures. This was because it was so different to what we had experienced before this trek. On top of the unique volcanic landscape, the trail had variety on offer; well maintained paths, staircases, ridges, scree and the option to venture onto two summits. With craters, lakes, deserts, ridges, moors and native bush, all flowing one into the next. This isn't like the Fiordland great walks, where excellent paths lead from one view to another, this trail takes you into the views and literally the centre of a volcano. A truly amazing hike that is near the very top of my NZ experiences.

Unfortunately though, this unique and amazing journey has spread its fame and has become one of the most popular trails in NZ. This means that everyone wants to come and experience this other worldly place and the numbers are on the increase. This in itself isn't a problem, as people on the trail tend to spread out and everyone is generally friendly. The problems occur when dozens of people tackle Mt Ngauruhoe's steep scree covered slopes at the same time. Although the ranger at the hut warned us on falling rocks from people and the mountain, not all people stop at the hut and are unfortunately misinformed on the dangers and mechanics of scree. We witnessed another 'tourist' get hit by a rock and even after some advice continued to put themselves in harms way. An accident waiting to happen.

Another problem is with increased numbers comes increased statistics. As we descended from Emerald Lakes, we came across an unfortunate dislocated ankle. Luckily an experienced party member was sorting the well equipped team out. The fella was probably bored stiff of passerby's running through the first aid procedures when we came a long and started the tick list ourselves. After he explained everything (probably for the tenth time) we concluded that all we could do is offer to help with kit and one cold member of the group and set off towards the hut with some of the group. Just another unfortunate statistic that could have happened anywhere.

Although there were negatives, the positives far outweigh them and have given us a great experience. This trip has definitely been one of my best experiences of tramping in New Zealand and if the negatives hadn't happened, it would have been the best, hands down.

Pyke - Big bay and Hollyford track circuit

Walk down three mile beach

A route for fit and experienced trampers only, which is off the beaten track, with numerous river crossings, possible flooding, bog's and very remote. These are some of the selling points to the Pyke - Big bay and Hollyford tracks. If we wanted adventure, we had signed up to the right route.

Start of the 9 day adventure

The Hollyford track had been on mine and Lucy's radar since our first visit to Fiordland. Often described as the logical step up from the great walks in the area. The Hollyford winds it's way through native bush, up and down the rocky demon trail and ends at the sea.

The Pyke - Big bay track starts after the first day along the Hollyford on the shore of the reasonably sized lake Alabaster. Everywhere you look DOC have labeled this route as a back country tramping route, to do in good weather and only for fit and experienced trampers.

We both decided the 10 day round trip would be a perfect introduction to New Zealand tramping for Lucy's sister Amy.

Morning mist

Morning on Alabaster Lake

Shores of Alabaster

The unhelpful words from the young male DOC worker at Te Anau filled my mind after escaping from the well maintained Hollyford track, onto the shore of Lake Alabaster. Wind blown trees, landslides and a lake you have to swim across...

We soon settled into the rhythm of walking. Helped by the backdrop of a perfectly still lake, capped by the snow clad granite mounds of the Darren Mountains reaching into the sky. After a couple of hours and countless knee depth wades around windblown trees, we figured we were half way down the lake. Considering the lake section was only meant to take 2-3 hours, we soon realised it was going to be a long day.

Bruce's boat

Amy enjoying the ride

An open section, looking back down the valley we walked

Luckily for us the local trail angel turns up right on clue. A 6" bearded kiwi that has an uncanny resemblance to Mr Birdseye, who apparently makes a living off the lake and surrounding bush. We later find out that Bruce gives almost everyone a lift, and despite him heading the other way, offers to give us a lift to the end of the lake, Winner!

After a very nice chat, a sightseeing tour of the local waterfalls and the offer of a freshly caught trout, Bruce delivers us to the end of the lake. Rested and slightly relieved that the tiny boat didn't sink, we headed back into the bush with the now added sense of remoteness. From here on in we knew we would be on our own and in the proper backcountry.

Amy's first river crossing (it got deeper...)

The vague description on the DOC brochure mentions, old tracks, flax mazes, black swamps, river crossings and a general sense of finding your own way from Alabaster to Big bay. But with a group of DOC workers having been through a week before us doing track maintenance. The track and markers were good and during our time on the Pyke - Big bay route we only managed to wander off the path a handful of times. The fact that the water levels were low meant we didn't have to worry about the possibility of getting to a river that was impossible/too dangerous to cross. We happily plodded through any crossings, with the deepest water only mid thigh deep.

A stream crossing

Splitting the 60k route into four days and an additional rest day at Big bay, gave us an easy approach to each day. We spent a sleepless night at Olivine hut chasing mice, a jungle camp spot near the Pyke crossing and two nights at the Big bay hut, before we reached the end of the Hollyford track at Martins bay. The rest day gave us a perfect opportunity to relax and enjoy the remoteness of Big bay. Hunting penguins and dolphins along the coast filled most of the day. As well as a creeping feeling that I should have bought ingredients to cook Paua, as the beach and hut was scattered with their colourful shells. We only managed to spot three dolphins in the surf. Just as the sun started to dip behind the mountains of Fiordland and the deep purpley-orange sky began to paint the sea in similar colours. Three darker, rounded fins, humped their way casually along the bay.

Start of Big bay's three mile beach

As we left the Big bay hut and started the lovely walk down three mile beach, towards Martins bay and the Hollyford track. There was a sense that we had already completed our trek and were on our way home and we had to keep telling ourselves that we had at least four more days to go...

Boggy ground all the way...

The relaxing day along the stoney beach, reminded me of the many days on the Whitby coast. Sun, clouds, rain and sea. Right until we almost walked straight into a Fiordland Crested Penguin. Stood 30 metres in front of us. Staring straight back at us. After that, the trail must have known we were getting too comfortable with the area, as it funnelled us back into the mass of flax which hugged the coast. After a few hours of flax bashing we were relieved to be at Long Reef, eyeing up fur seals from a distance and officially on the Hollyford track! A quick stroll down the track delivered us to Martins bay hut and the entertainment of surfers on a head and a half wave and freshly caught, battered fish, double winner.

Penguin

Penguin centre shot

Long Reef sunset

The feeling that we were now on the easy trail soon faded away after we passed the full Horuki Hut. The undulating demons trail managed to slow our pace back down and we were glad when we finally found a beach half way along. A short scramble down to where we could pitch our tents gave us a perfect private bay.

Tents up, chow down and sunning ourselves, we were surprised to see good old Bruce, chugging down the choppy lake with two trampers clinging on. Thanking him again, we said our goodbye's as he disappeared down the white horse capped lake.

One of the many wire bridges

Lucy on the wire

Wake up view

The relentlessly rocky and boggy trail finally gave way to the well maintained trail by Lake Alabaster, and the final day seemed to fly by in nice weather and an easy track.

The brochures of both Pyke - Big bay and Hollyford tracks, highlight the coastal wildlife as one of the selling points for the treks. Luckily we managed to spot; dolphins, penguins and fur seals. This coupled with the very low water levels made the whole trip relaxed and adventurous at the same time. Due to DOC and volunteers remarking and clearing some of the track, the trail was at a similar level to the demon trail on the Hollyford, in terms of ruggedness.

An amazing trip, with amazing views and an adventurous feel. I am so glad I took a mountain of salt with the 'advice' the DOC worker at Te Anua gave us. Our nine day adventure up the Pyke and Hollyford valleys, will be high on my 'best of New Zealand' list.

Standard ground on the Pkye - Big bay route

Beach spot along the Demon trail

THE shot of the tracks....

Finish!