Mt Ruapehu: New Zealand's tallest Volcano

Plodding along Dome ridge

Our last mountainous adventure in New Zealand couldn't have been better. This was our last volcano to conquer on North Island, and it also happened to be the highest. Even though the Southern Alps has the biggest mountains NZ has to offer, Mt Ruapehu, which stands at 2797m, was the highest hill we explored in NZ.

The day after finishing the three day Tongariro Northern Circuit, the perfect weather window appeared on the forecast. There was simply no time to rest and recover, we had a volcano to climb.

Catching the chairlift up

The ascent of the highest mountain on NZ North Island is actually quite modest at only around 800 metres of ascent. This is of course if you catch the chairlift up to 2000m, and having finished the circuit the day before we would have been foolish not to take advantage of this resource. I can say that my leg's definitely thanked me afterwards and I would have been nothing short of broken if we'd walked all the way up.

Shallow gully before Dome ridge

With the dusting of snow the week before, the mountain was transformed into a beautiful winter adventure. The snow made for quick and easy ascending up the gully that led to the sharp Dome ridge.

Looking across the summit plateau

Gaining the summit plateau as the cloud moved in below us, we were treated to another view across the tops of the clouds with the peaks still glistening above us. The view around the crater lake was sublime. There was a deep contrast from the cold white snow and the steaming emerald lake, but our day wasn't finished there. The true summit stood on the other side of the lake than the tourist track and it was time to venture from the track.

View across to Mt Taranaki

View from below our high point, the mound in centre shot is the end of the tourist track

Although the only people to be wearing crampons that day was us and a DOC ranger, we were so happy with our decision as the steep ice slopes onto the glacier was no place to be slipping. The romp across the tiny glacier and starting ridge was plain sailing, but when we neared the summit of the first peak we had to stop and reassess the conditions.

It was a warm day, the sun was beating down, there was little to no wind and the snow was suffering. Rime ice that had been plastered onto the rock was warming and melting, the snow was the consistency of boiled butter and things were starting to tumble down the hill side. Knowing that we had a knife edge ridge to traverse in warm Temp's and our turnaround time on the near horizon, we called it a day at 2680m.

Romping back across the glacier

Although we didn't stand next to the highest point on North Island, the day was a perfect end to our mountainous adventures of New Zealand. It really is the land of the long white cloud, and has so many hills and mountain range's that you would need a really big stick to poke them all.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing: New Zealand's best hike

The alpine crossing, seen from the road

It seems that no matter which New Zealand back country  hut you stay in, the conversation involving 'the best' great walk always crops up and so far the majority have said the Tongariro Northern Circuit is the one. Just as winter has started to show, we arrived at Whakapapa and the start of one of our best NZ hikes.

Mt Ngauruhoe from the start

The Tongariro National Park, was NZ's first national park and the worlds fourth. The land was gifted to the people of NZ in 1887 from the local tribe Ngati Tuwharetoa, to preserve the areas spiritual significance, during the sale of land patches after the land wars. The park is made up of some of NZ's most active Volcanoes; Mt Ruapehu 2797m, Mt Ngauruhoe 2287m, Mt Tongariro 1968m and Te Mari 1739m. Capitalising on this unique landscape, the Department Of Conservation (DOC) have created one of NZ's most popular day walks and possibly made their best 'Great Walk'.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, is without a doubt one of NZ's most hiked trail. It's got volcanoes, crater's, colourful lakes, it doesn't drop below a thousand metres and has easy transport links, who wouldn't want to explore this fascinating area. An extension to this popular tramp, a 43.2k circumnavigation of Mt Ngauruhoe makes up one of the three great walks on North Island, labeled the Tongariro Northern Circuit.

Walking the 'ditch'

Basing ourselves at the tiny alpine village of Whakapapa (pronounced f-u-k-a-pa-pa I kid you not!), meant we had some flexibility in our planning on which way round to go and more importantly, we had up to date weather to make our decision on when to leave. Luckily a weather window was on the horizon, and after one very autumnal night we were leaving under clear blue skies.

Sunset from the hut

Mt Ngauruhoe (Doom) erupting star's

Clear skies and bright star's

Surprisingly, our first day on the tramp that has been described as the best NZ has to offer, we had nothing to write home about. Eight and a half kilometres of sub alpine shrub, and an eroded path. The ranger at Mangatepopo hut summarised the section figuratively as 'the ditch'.

Having only spent three hours walking, our first day was sunny, chilled and filled with excitement after chatting to folk that had been to the towering summit of Mt Ngauruhoe that day. Lucy and me were primed and ready for the best forecasted weather day in the week. We were going to conquer are first active volcano and we were going to get stunning views.

Waking to low cloud changed everything.

Setting off from the hut, walking towards the seemingly lowering cloud, our hopes had dropped almost all the way out. With the rangers 'we don't get cloud inversions round here' ringing in our heads, we glumly made our way up the notoriously steep devils staircase. In the cloud, with the mass of day walkers we stood, pondering whether the summit would be worth the effort. We of course decided that standing on top of the film set of The Lord Of The Rings Mt Doom would be worth the effort, even if we wouldn't get any views. So we joined the steep path towards the cloud hidden cone which we had spent the last few days admiring from a distance.

Walking in the cloud

Ten minutes from the path junction, it happened. The cloud thinned, visibility improved and then, boom. There it was, the 2287m Mt Ngauruhoe. The cloud seemed to drift in and out of thickness around the base of the mountain, but the middle slopes and summit remained clear of any cloud. We were going to get view's. This enlightenment gave Lucy and me unknown energy and the steep, loose scree and ridge above seemed to fly by. Soon enough we were standing in snow and gazing out across the cloud inversion towards Mt Taranaki, Mt Ruapehu and Lake Taupo. A truly amazing sight. With the emotional high of the stunning summit and steep scree, the descent passed in almost an instance.

Mid slopes of Mt Ngauruhoe

Summit ridge of Mt Tongariro

Lucy walking past a steam vent near the summit

Mt Ruapehu above the cloud inversion

Summit selfie ( with the lucky duck)

Soon after joining the main trail again, the track ascends a ridge along south crater and reaches its highest point away from the summit side trips. Here a sign points in the direction of Mt Tongariro. Again we were facing the decision whether to head for the summit which will probably be in the clouds, and of course we had to go. This time however, we were granted a meeting from a very cool individual.

Chillin' with a local near the summit of Mt Tongariro

A fella who happened to be doing the Northern Circuit had made a very impressive snowman near the summit. Top effort.

South crater

Emerald lakes

Back on the main trail we were transported to another world, massive red craters with a lick of snow, long twisting ridges and small dotted volcanic lakes, aptly named Emerald lakes. Walking past the steaming lakes with sulphur burning an eggy smell into our nostrils, we couldn't escape the feeling we were in a massive volcanic crater. Unfortunately, the cloud had stayed and we weren't granted the views of the surrounding peaks of the central crater.

Descending towards the hut

The last section to the hut confirmed that we had left earth and were wondering on the surface of Mars. Black basalt pinnacles spaced by reddish coloured pebbles, with only a handful of hardy plants clinging onto life in this barren land. We truly thought and discussed the possibility of turning a corner and coming face to face with a group of Jawa's from the Star Wars planet Tatooine.

Walking on another world

Having our last night in cozy Oturere hut, was a perfect end to our back country hut experiences. Although the small hut had twenty five bodies squeezed into it's cramped living space, our experience was filled with classic hut pleasantries. We had the classic kiwi hospitality, story sharing and friendly chats about anything and everything. A pleasant closure in our experience of a brilliant hut system.

Mt Nguarahoe from the hut

Our last day was spent descending back down on to planet earth. First through the volcanic deserts, and then into the sub and bush of the typical NZ back country. We made sure to stop by the amazing new Waihohonu hut which was nothing short of a mansion compared to the previous one. The rest of the day flowed by as we walked under a blanket of grey, mountain shrouding clouds. Although on a clear day the hike over the moor like terrain would have given surrounding panoramic views, ours seemed to transport us back to memories of the dull Yorkshire Moors that seemed to drag a bit. We were glad when the roof of our hostel for the night appeared over the shrubs and we knew we had finished our last multiday NZ adventure.

Looking back across the moorland

Lucy and I both agreed that even with the less than ideal weather Tongariro Northern Circuit was one of our best NZ adventures. This was because it was so different to what we had experienced before this trek. On top of the unique volcanic landscape, the trail had variety on offer; well maintained paths, staircases, ridges, scree and the option to venture onto two summits. With craters, lakes, deserts, ridges, moors and native bush, all flowing one into the next. This isn't like the Fiordland great walks, where excellent paths lead from one view to another, this trail takes you into the views and literally the centre of a volcano. A truly amazing hike that is near the very top of my NZ experiences.

Unfortunately though, this unique and amazing journey has spread its fame and has become one of the most popular trails in NZ. This means that everyone wants to come and experience this other worldly place and the numbers are on the increase. This in itself isn't a problem, as people on the trail tend to spread out and everyone is generally friendly. The problems occur when dozens of people tackle Mt Ngauruhoe's steep scree covered slopes at the same time. Although the ranger at the hut warned us on falling rocks from people and the mountain, not all people stop at the hut and are unfortunately misinformed on the dangers and mechanics of scree. We witnessed another 'tourist' get hit by a rock and even after some advice continued to put themselves in harms way. An accident waiting to happen.

Another problem is with increased numbers comes increased statistics. As we descended from Emerald Lakes, we came across an unfortunate dislocated ankle. Luckily an experienced party member was sorting the well equipped team out. The fella was probably bored stiff of passerby's running through the first aid procedures when we came a long and started the tick list ourselves. After he explained everything (probably for the tenth time) we concluded that all we could do is offer to help with kit and one cold member of the group and set off towards the hut with some of the group. Just another unfortunate statistic that could have happened anywhere.

Although there were negatives, the positives far outweigh them and have given us a great experience. This trip has definitely been one of my best experiences of tramping in New Zealand and if the negatives hadn't happened, it would have been the best, hands down.

New Zealand's most climbed mountain: Mt Taranaki

Mt Taranaki from near the car park

The volcanic, 2515 metre summit of Mt Taranaki dominates the skyline from New Plymouth and the surrounding coast. This easily accessible alpine peak has been dubbed 'the most climbed peak in NZ' and rightfully so. Although it spends most of its time hidden in the clouds, the impressive view of the volcanic cone, standing above the farmland would get any wannabe hiker dreaming of a summit attempt. Luckily for us we had a cloud free morning to soak up the giant views.

Along with the normal European first ascent, Mt Taranaki has a deep Maori legacy. Mt Taranaki is said to have once lived further east within the tribe of the other volcanoes. Whilst there, Taranaki fell for a pretty little hill called Pihanga, who unfortunately was also the lover of Mt Tongariro. Just like all other love struck blokes, the two volcanoes had a big battle and Taranaki fled to the east. On it's way, Taranaki carved the deep Whanganui valley, filling it with his tears and forming the river which is now the home to the very popular Whanganui canoe river journey. Due to his sorrow and shame, Taranaki is said to spend most of his time hidden behind the clouds.

Our first view of Mt Taranaki was from state highway 45 as we made our way towards New Plymouth. This giant mass, dwarfed the surrounding countryside, and even though the summit was hidden by cloud we could tell the peak stretched far into the sky. The weather was set to improve the day after, but from the encircling surf highway the dark mass had little promise.

Waking early after the persistent thunderstorm to clear blue skies and an impressive view of our objective for the day, motivation was at an all time high. Clear skies and low winds, this was the time to tackle the mountain if there ever was one. This knowledge had obviously been triggered in a fair few heads that morning. I wasn't counting but we estimated on the way down that we saw close to a hundred people going for the summit that day. Although that's nothing compared to the Alps and European ranges, for NZ were fifteen seems like a lot, this felt like grand central station.

Lingering cloud

8-10 hours return, is the suggested time the summit track takes. Clearly marked on finger posts at the car park, the less daunting summit looks almost like you could reach out and touch it. The ascent is split into three separate stages; lush forest, alpine shrub and volcanic rock and despite some descriptions, it's well marked and trodden. The steep climbing means that height is gained quickly and before we knew it we were above the clouds, rewarding us with big views across to Mt Ruapehu. Shortly after our views the cloud closed in, offering us the pleasure of a cooler and wetter ascent.

Big views north

Mt Taranaki also has a darker side. To complement the mountain as NZ most climbed, Mt Taranaki is also one of NZ's most deadliest. So far 88 people have lost their lives on the slopes, although compared to Mt Cooks 230, this is still regarded as one of the top killers. This is due to a number of factor's; accessibility, under preparedness, popularity and the quickly changing weather and so far we had seen nearly all of these factor's.

Steep staircase over volcanic scree

Scrambling into a volcanic crater has got to be one of my more surreal experiences. Even though the mountain is dormant, standing in an amphitheatre surrounded by rock peaks in thick cloud was an experience I'll remember. Reaching the summit the psychological high of climbing our first volcano meant that we were so preoccupied that we missed a summit selfie. Which probably would have ended up with all the other anticlimactic misty/cloud summit shots I have hidden away on the computer, so it's probably not a bad thing.

Our world for a few hours

A clearing in the cloud on the final ridge

A cracking climb, that with the right conditions and weather, can give a truly amazing experience and a view I can only dream of. On our way down, just as quickly as it came in, the cloud parted for a brief spell, giving us views to the summit and the swirling mass of clouds below.

One magical moment.

This meant that the sun was above us and cloud below. Casting our shadow's onto the grey below us and forming a natural phenomena I have longed to see. A Brocken Spectre. Derived from the German for breaking into ghost, this phenomena has haunted mountaineers around the world. Caused by the light falling on the water particle's in such a way that forms a rainbow around the person's shadow head. Only seen by the shadows caster, the brocken Spectre is a personal memory.

Colourful halo round my head

A memorial trip that is worth it's title of most climbed peak in NZ. 

New Zealand Kahurangi National Park: putting Sam Owen on Mt Owen

The classic Mt Owen photograph

A long gravel road to the trail head, a thousand metre ascent approach and a fantastic hut perched in between giant limestone outcrops. I don't think anyone could throw together a kiwi tramp as classic as Mt Owen, even if they floated a kiwi bird and a half pint of Speights in.

Although Mt Owen is well known by caving circle's, trampers, Lord Of The Rings fans and the fact it's the highest hill in the Kahurangi NP. Our push to the summit had a more ironic twist than most other trampers. Our goal was to put an Owen on Mt Owen.

Standing at 1875m, Mt Owen isn't actually one of the big guns of NZ's South Island. It is however, surrounded by a lot smaller hills and stands over farm land, Nelson bay and the West Coast, giving it a similar feeling of other higher hills.

Having Read about the danger and almost, certain chance of death from the Department Of Conservation's (DOC) brochure. We had come to understand that this was again a back country route, that required good weather to enjoy.

Fortunate for us, we had two days left of fine weather before a slow moving weather front made its way up the country.

Whether its the dopamine high after previous trips, my brain blocking bad memories or something else. I seem to always forget how hard and unpleasant hiking up hill can be. I must have spent days worth of time dragging my body uphill in NZ. Yet every time it comes to the first hill of a trip, my body and sometimes my mind feels like I've just jumped into my first boxing fight against a semi pro. This was no different. A long, sun kissed ridge made a hot, thirsty ascent to a valley that is hidden from the start. This is probably where the dopamine set in and I will forget all that hard work and remember my first view of Mt Owen. Obscured by cloud, the summit plateau sat high above the fantastically carved limestone valley, drawing a colourful contrast between the forest green and rocky greys.

First view of Mt Owen

The knowledge of Mt Owen being a classic tramp must have been around for a while as on our way up we spoke to seven folks, who had been up Mt Owen the day before and ended up spending the night with five others in the the twelve bed hut. And luckily we decided to head down late after our summit day, as we met fifteen people heading for a long weekend up Mt Owen. I guess that's the price of a quality tramp, popularity.

Due to DOC labelling the non marked (but incredibly well travelled) route above the hut to the summit as, almost certainly going to kill you. I was a little undecided and cautious to what laid above the hut. A short conversation with a Dutch couple on their way out confirmed my suspicious side, the track was well trodden, cairned and even had little bit of pink ribbon tied to small rocks. It looked like the certain death was postponed.

After the trip, the three of us categorised the sections into; hardest, lesser and easiest legs. The hardest was the walk into the hut, lesser was the ascent of Mt Owen and easiest was the walk out.

Sunrise on the range

Having been awhile since we spent some time above the bush line, the open snow grass covered hills and limestone peaks was a welcomed change. Soon after leaving the hut we were filled with nostalgia of walking in the Yorkshire Dales, just these hill's were on steroid's. The snow grass soon gave way to limestone pavements, outcrops and sinkholes that could swallow a car. This terrain gave some very pleasant scrambling, which seemed to pass the time very quickly.

Typical terrain above the hut

Looking up at Mt Owen and it's bluff's

Walking across the summit plateau of Mt Owen was like topping out on a 2000m peak due to the land around. The rush of joy, excitement, pride and wonder, striking everyone of us into wide eyed tourist, who stare out onto the view, trying to take it all in.

I have no idea how long we spent on the summit. During the ascent a local kiwi caught us up and we had a good old chat, sharing stories, tips and places to visit. Maybe it was fate that during the ironic ascent of Mt Owen, we meet a kiwi who has also climbed Poland's iconic Mt Giewont. It got me thinking, maybe there's a Mt Sulowluski, waiting for an ascent too.

Looking south from summit

Looking north from summit

On the way back down, the cracks and crevasses in the rock seemed to be much bigger, especially when walking down hill and looking straight down into them. We soon found ourselves back on the grass though and before we knew it back at the hut five hours after we left, not bad for a 7-8 hour time frame given by DOC.

Not spending a second night in the hut, as we had originally planned because of an increasing number of people turning up and Amy preferring not to walk out on her birthday. Happened to be a lucky break. The new Granity Pass hut is very nice, but even eight people made the cosy one room hut feel busy, and I'm glad we swapped a late walk out for a crowded hut. We defiantly felt lucky to only share with five others on this seemingly popular tramp.

Heading back a long the summit plateau

Having spent the last two weeks wrapped up in the touristy Great Walks in the area. Mt Owen has rekindled the beauty of the lesser well known walks that are hidden in all corners of NZ. Showing us that we really don't have to travel far to find rewarding back country trips and friendly kiwi hospitality. Although I might give DOC a hard time on over playing certain danger's, the track up Mt Owen has got some serious danger's. Deep cracks, crevasses and sinkholes litter the hill. It's home to a 54k cave system which happens to be the largest cave in the southern hemisphere. Mt Owen in bad weather or snow covered ground maybe wouldn't be the best choice for a relaxing weekend tramp. But with challenge and danger comes reward and fulfilment, this is a classic tramp which needs common sense when planning.

A big thank you goes out to Al who offered accommodation which we unfortunately didn't take up as we came down so late, and Dick for leaving some trail magic in the form of dehydrated hummus labelled 'for team YORKSHIRE'. Legend's! 

New Zealands Heaphy track: my experience with the most varied great walk

Heaphy a long the West Coast

At 78.5 kilometres long, the Heaphy track is the longest of New Zealand's great walks. With one end starting in the foot hills of Golden bay and the other on the wild West Coast. This great walk is said to pack the most variety of NZ environments into one enjoyable tramp. Even though this is our last great walk to complete on south island, it still had a handful of first experiences to throw at us.

460 kilometres of road separate the two trail heads. This, in itself can be a logistical nightmare. To solve this nightmare, a handful of companies offer services from one road end to the other; four connecting buses, car relocation, helicopters, plane's and the old fashioned hitchhiking. Lucky for us, cheap back flights and good weather favoured our very first light aircraft flight!

Golden bay take off

20 minutes in clear blue skies and we had flown the track that would be our home for the next three days. Our pilot pointed out the local highlights; farewell spit, a gold mining dam, Mt Perry, most of the Heaphy huts and the long, slithering Heaphy track below us. Even with Lucy as 'co-pilot' (as she put it), the plane journey easily lowered us into a sight seeing tourist mode and we had to reality check ourselves back with the 17k of wild West Coast track.

West Coast

Heaphy river

Lucy in 'copilot' seat

Landed!

Immersing ourselves into the first of the environments. We hit the Nikau palm tree forests, which gave a very tropical feel to the surf battered coast. The track naturally splits itself up with Crayfish Point. At just under half way and the only point that gets covered by high tide, the headland reaches far enough out into the Tasman sea to give great views down the coast. With the sun beating down and a haze blown in off the sea, the West Coast wouldn't look out of place in any of the Jurassic Park films. Coupled with the scattered shells of giant carnivorous land snail's, the environment really does create a wild place.

Snail shell's

We were glad to finally arrive at the newly built Heaphy hut. 26 beds perched by the mouth of the Heaphy river, with cracking views up the valley and out to sea.

Sunset from the hut

Not the best night shot but there's some stars..

Our first 30k+ day of the trip soon had us heading uphill and out of the tropical feeling palm trees. Steadily climbing from the coast the palms gave way to beech tree forests where the climb never seemed to end. We obviously weren't the only ones feeling the strain of the hill and the desperate messages scratched into the dirt asking how far the hut was gave us a giggle or two.

Reaching the new James McKay hut marked the start of the Gouland Downs. This was the third environment for us to pass through. Starting with dwindling beech tree patches and opening up to grassy moorland, this plateau of land gave a very Scottish highland feel to our trip. The older Saxon hut was our home for the second night. With only two other people to share it with, this rustic hut had a very cosy feel and thankfully didn't smell of bug spray.

One of the wire bridge's

Rainbow

Whether it's a primordial brain function, social normality or something else, thunder and lightning gets the blood pumping. Waking in the middle of the night to a light and sound display, might even get the odd bit of adrenaline going too. All I can say is, ' thank God we decided not to camp!'. The short lived storm passed in ten minutes, but rattled the Spanish couple enough for them to move from the top bunk to a lower one...

We had spotted the shell's of the giant carnivorous land snail already, but none with a living snail inside. So, I had already concluded that these creatures would probably look more like a dragons head poking out of the shell. With horn's as antenna and big sharp dinosaur like teeth, ready to devour any and all flesh that stood in its way. Of course, all of this was based on the single fact that it was carnivorous.

As we set of for our last and second 30k+ day, the dream of this magical snail was destroyed. It just so happens, they look like almost all other snail's... just slightly bigger.

Carnivorous land snail...

This day was always going to be a wash out, as the weather had predicted rain all day. We managed however, to duck and dodge the rain until we arrived at another new hut at Perry Saddle. This was the fourth and final environment to experience on the track. The sub alpine shrubs gave a nice open view, which on a clear day would have been spectacular. For us, the hut gave a welcome lunch spot and the final rest stop before the end. At this point, the posts that mark one kilometre to the huts had become beacons of hope. These popped up out of the forests and informed us that there would only be ten more minutes or so to the hut. I've never liked little green wooden posts as much as those posts that appeared out of the rain beaming hope and warmth.  

Beacon of warmth and joy!

Damp

Four hours later, and three very wet bodies arrived at the Brown hut at the end of the track. I always found walking in the rain to be very therapeutic, but after the second hour, my therapy was done and the end couldn't have come soon enough. Luckily, folk's had already got a fire going and ushered us in and next to the warmth in the rustic hut.

All in all, the track gave a very nice end for us to the South Island great walks. Being one of the two great walks to make it into the lonely planets top 20 things to do, I was expecting the experience to be on par with the other South Island walks. The Heaphy however, has completely different landscapes than the others and because of that I personally don't think they can be compared side by side. I love the mountains, glacier's and deep cut valleys, so I would always side towards those environments of the mountainous regions, but the Heaphy, has something different. It has differing environments every 20k, a combination of rustic and state of the art huts. It has numerous limestone caves, arches and rock formations to explore, unique giant snails and of course it has the wild West Coast.

The Heaphy, simply put has four walks stacked on top of each and offers a fantastic trip through some of New Zealand's unique environments and wildlife. Another must do.