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| Walk down three mile beach |
A route for fit and experienced trampers only, which is off the beaten track, with numerous river crossings, possible flooding, bog's and very remote. These are some of the selling points to the Pyke - Big bay and Hollyford tracks. If we wanted adventure, we had signed up to the right route.
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| Start of the 9 day adventure |
The Hollyford track had been on mine and Lucy's radar since our first visit to Fiordland. Often described as the logical step up from the great walks in the area. The Hollyford winds it's way through native bush, up and down the rocky demon trail and ends at the sea.
The Pyke - Big bay track starts after the first day along the Hollyford on the shore of the reasonably sized lake Alabaster. Everywhere you look DOC have labeled this route as a back country tramping route, to do in good weather and only for fit and experienced trampers.
We both decided the 10 day round trip would be a perfect introduction to New Zealand tramping for Lucy's sister Amy.
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| Morning mist |
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| Morning on Alabaster Lake |
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| Shores of Alabaster |
The unhelpful words from the young male DOC worker at Te Anau filled my mind after escaping from the well maintained Hollyford track, onto the shore of Lake Alabaster. Wind blown trees, landslides and a lake you have to swim across...
We soon settled into the rhythm of walking. Helped by the backdrop of a perfectly still lake, capped by the snow clad granite mounds of the Darren Mountains reaching into the sky. After a couple of hours and countless knee depth wades around windblown trees, we figured we were half way down the lake. Considering the lake section was only meant to take 2-3 hours, we soon realised it was going to be a long day.
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| Bruce's boat |
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| Amy enjoying the ride |
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| An open section, looking back down the valley we walked |
Luckily for us the local trail angel turns up right on clue. A 6" bearded kiwi that has an uncanny resemblance to Mr Birdseye, who apparently makes a living off the lake and surrounding bush. We later find out that Bruce gives almost everyone a lift, and despite him heading the other way, offers to give us a lift to the end of the lake, Winner!
After a very nice chat, a sightseeing tour of the local waterfalls and the offer of a freshly caught trout, Bruce delivers us to the end of the lake. Rested and slightly relieved that the tiny boat didn't sink, we headed back into the bush with the now added sense of remoteness. From here on in we knew we would be on our own and in the proper backcountry.
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| Amy's first river crossing (it got deeper...) |
The vague description on the DOC brochure mentions, old tracks, flax mazes, black swamps, river crossings and a general sense of finding your own way from Alabaster to Big bay. But with a group of DOC workers having been through a week before us doing track maintenance. The track and markers were good and during our time on the Pyke - Big bay route we only managed to wander off the path a handful of times. The fact that the water levels were low meant we didn't have to worry about the possibility of getting to a river that was impossible/too dangerous to cross. We happily plodded through any crossings, with the deepest water only mid thigh deep.
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| A stream crossing |
Splitting the 60k route into four days and an additional rest day at Big bay, gave us an easy approach to each day. We spent a sleepless night at Olivine hut chasing mice, a jungle camp spot near the Pyke crossing and two nights at the Big bay hut, before we reached the end of the Hollyford track at Martins bay. The rest day gave us a perfect opportunity to relax and enjoy the remoteness of Big bay. Hunting penguins and dolphins along the coast filled most of the day. As well as a creeping feeling that I should have bought ingredients to cook Paua, as the beach and hut was scattered with their colourful shells. We only managed to spot three dolphins in the surf. Just as the sun started to dip behind the mountains of Fiordland and the deep purpley-orange sky began to paint the sea in similar colours. Three darker, rounded fins, humped their way casually along the bay.
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| Start of Big bay's three mile beach |
As we left the Big bay hut and started the lovely walk down three mile beach, towards Martins bay and the Hollyford track. There was a sense that we had already completed our trek and were on our way home and we had to keep telling ourselves that we had at least four more days to go...
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| Boggy ground all the way... |
The relaxing day along the stoney beach, reminded me of the many days on the Whitby coast. Sun, clouds, rain and sea. Right until we almost walked straight into a Fiordland Crested Penguin. Stood 30 metres in front of us. Staring straight back at us. After that, the trail must have known we were getting too comfortable with the area, as it funnelled us back into the mass of flax which hugged the coast. After a few hours of flax bashing we were relieved to be at Long Reef, eyeing up fur seals from a distance and officially on the Hollyford track! A quick stroll down the track delivered us to Martins bay hut and the entertainment of surfers on a head and a half wave and freshly caught, battered fish, double winner.
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| Penguin |
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| Penguin centre shot |
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| Long Reef sunset |
The feeling that we were now on the easy trail soon faded away after we passed the full Horuki Hut. The undulating demons trail managed to slow our pace back down and we were glad when we finally found a beach half way along. A short scramble down to where we could pitch our tents gave us a perfect private bay.
Tents up, chow down and sunning ourselves, we were surprised to see good old Bruce, chugging down the choppy lake with two trampers clinging on. Thanking him again, we said our goodbye's as he disappeared down the white horse capped lake.
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| One of the many wire bridges |
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| Lucy on the wire |
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| Wake up view |
The relentlessly rocky and boggy trail finally gave way to the well maintained trail by Lake Alabaster, and the final day seemed to fly by in nice weather and an easy track.
The brochures of both Pyke - Big bay and Hollyford tracks, highlight the coastal wildlife as one of the selling points for the treks. Luckily we managed to spot; dolphins, penguins and fur seals. This coupled with the very low water levels made the whole trip relaxed and adventurous at the same time. Due to DOC and volunteers remarking and clearing some of the track, the trail was at a similar level to the demon trail on the Hollyford, in terms of ruggedness.
