Mt Ruapehu: New Zealand's tallest Volcano

Plodding along Dome ridge

Our last mountainous adventure in New Zealand couldn't have been better. This was our last volcano to conquer on North Island, and it also happened to be the highest. Even though the Southern Alps has the biggest mountains NZ has to offer, Mt Ruapehu, which stands at 2797m, was the highest hill we explored in NZ.

The day after finishing the three day Tongariro Northern Circuit, the perfect weather window appeared on the forecast. There was simply no time to rest and recover, we had a volcano to climb.

Catching the chairlift up

The ascent of the highest mountain on NZ North Island is actually quite modest at only around 800 metres of ascent. This is of course if you catch the chairlift up to 2000m, and having finished the circuit the day before we would have been foolish not to take advantage of this resource. I can say that my leg's definitely thanked me afterwards and I would have been nothing short of broken if we'd walked all the way up.

Shallow gully before Dome ridge

With the dusting of snow the week before, the mountain was transformed into a beautiful winter adventure. The snow made for quick and easy ascending up the gully that led to the sharp Dome ridge.

Looking across the summit plateau

Gaining the summit plateau as the cloud moved in below us, we were treated to another view across the tops of the clouds with the peaks still glistening above us. The view around the crater lake was sublime. There was a deep contrast from the cold white snow and the steaming emerald lake, but our day wasn't finished there. The true summit stood on the other side of the lake than the tourist track and it was time to venture from the track.

View across to Mt Taranaki

View from below our high point, the mound in centre shot is the end of the tourist track

Although the only people to be wearing crampons that day was us and a DOC ranger, we were so happy with our decision as the steep ice slopes onto the glacier was no place to be slipping. The romp across the tiny glacier and starting ridge was plain sailing, but when we neared the summit of the first peak we had to stop and reassess the conditions.

It was a warm day, the sun was beating down, there was little to no wind and the snow was suffering. Rime ice that had been plastered onto the rock was warming and melting, the snow was the consistency of boiled butter and things were starting to tumble down the hill side. Knowing that we had a knife edge ridge to traverse in warm Temp's and our turnaround time on the near horizon, we called it a day at 2680m.

Romping back across the glacier

Although we didn't stand next to the highest point on North Island, the day was a perfect end to our mountainous adventures of New Zealand. It really is the land of the long white cloud, and has so many hills and mountain range's that you would need a really big stick to poke them all.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing: New Zealand's best hike

The alpine crossing, seen from the road

It seems that no matter which New Zealand back country  hut you stay in, the conversation involving 'the best' great walk always crops up and so far the majority have said the Tongariro Northern Circuit is the one. Just as winter has started to show, we arrived at Whakapapa and the start of one of our best NZ hikes.

Mt Ngauruhoe from the start

The Tongariro National Park, was NZ's first national park and the worlds fourth. The land was gifted to the people of NZ in 1887 from the local tribe Ngati Tuwharetoa, to preserve the areas spiritual significance, during the sale of land patches after the land wars. The park is made up of some of NZ's most active Volcanoes; Mt Ruapehu 2797m, Mt Ngauruhoe 2287m, Mt Tongariro 1968m and Te Mari 1739m. Capitalising on this unique landscape, the Department Of Conservation (DOC) have created one of NZ's most popular day walks and possibly made their best 'Great Walk'.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, is without a doubt one of NZ's most hiked trail. It's got volcanoes, crater's, colourful lakes, it doesn't drop below a thousand metres and has easy transport links, who wouldn't want to explore this fascinating area. An extension to this popular tramp, a 43.2k circumnavigation of Mt Ngauruhoe makes up one of the three great walks on North Island, labeled the Tongariro Northern Circuit.

Walking the 'ditch'

Basing ourselves at the tiny alpine village of Whakapapa (pronounced f-u-k-a-pa-pa I kid you not!), meant we had some flexibility in our planning on which way round to go and more importantly, we had up to date weather to make our decision on when to leave. Luckily a weather window was on the horizon, and after one very autumnal night we were leaving under clear blue skies.

Sunset from the hut

Mt Ngauruhoe (Doom) erupting star's

Clear skies and bright star's

Surprisingly, our first day on the tramp that has been described as the best NZ has to offer, we had nothing to write home about. Eight and a half kilometres of sub alpine shrub, and an eroded path. The ranger at Mangatepopo hut summarised the section figuratively as 'the ditch'.

Having only spent three hours walking, our first day was sunny, chilled and filled with excitement after chatting to folk that had been to the towering summit of Mt Ngauruhoe that day. Lucy and me were primed and ready for the best forecasted weather day in the week. We were going to conquer are first active volcano and we were going to get stunning views.

Waking to low cloud changed everything.

Setting off from the hut, walking towards the seemingly lowering cloud, our hopes had dropped almost all the way out. With the rangers 'we don't get cloud inversions round here' ringing in our heads, we glumly made our way up the notoriously steep devils staircase. In the cloud, with the mass of day walkers we stood, pondering whether the summit would be worth the effort. We of course decided that standing on top of the film set of The Lord Of The Rings Mt Doom would be worth the effort, even if we wouldn't get any views. So we joined the steep path towards the cloud hidden cone which we had spent the last few days admiring from a distance.

Walking in the cloud

Ten minutes from the path junction, it happened. The cloud thinned, visibility improved and then, boom. There it was, the 2287m Mt Ngauruhoe. The cloud seemed to drift in and out of thickness around the base of the mountain, but the middle slopes and summit remained clear of any cloud. We were going to get view's. This enlightenment gave Lucy and me unknown energy and the steep, loose scree and ridge above seemed to fly by. Soon enough we were standing in snow and gazing out across the cloud inversion towards Mt Taranaki, Mt Ruapehu and Lake Taupo. A truly amazing sight. With the emotional high of the stunning summit and steep scree, the descent passed in almost an instance.

Mid slopes of Mt Ngauruhoe

Summit ridge of Mt Tongariro

Lucy walking past a steam vent near the summit

Mt Ruapehu above the cloud inversion

Summit selfie ( with the lucky duck)

Soon after joining the main trail again, the track ascends a ridge along south crater and reaches its highest point away from the summit side trips. Here a sign points in the direction of Mt Tongariro. Again we were facing the decision whether to head for the summit which will probably be in the clouds, and of course we had to go. This time however, we were granted a meeting from a very cool individual.

Chillin' with a local near the summit of Mt Tongariro

A fella who happened to be doing the Northern Circuit had made a very impressive snowman near the summit. Top effort.

South crater

Emerald lakes

Back on the main trail we were transported to another world, massive red craters with a lick of snow, long twisting ridges and small dotted volcanic lakes, aptly named Emerald lakes. Walking past the steaming lakes with sulphur burning an eggy smell into our nostrils, we couldn't escape the feeling we were in a massive volcanic crater. Unfortunately, the cloud had stayed and we weren't granted the views of the surrounding peaks of the central crater.

Descending towards the hut

The last section to the hut confirmed that we had left earth and were wondering on the surface of Mars. Black basalt pinnacles spaced by reddish coloured pebbles, with only a handful of hardy plants clinging onto life in this barren land. We truly thought and discussed the possibility of turning a corner and coming face to face with a group of Jawa's from the Star Wars planet Tatooine.

Walking on another world

Having our last night in cozy Oturere hut, was a perfect end to our back country hut experiences. Although the small hut had twenty five bodies squeezed into it's cramped living space, our experience was filled with classic hut pleasantries. We had the classic kiwi hospitality, story sharing and friendly chats about anything and everything. A pleasant closure in our experience of a brilliant hut system.

Mt Nguarahoe from the hut

Our last day was spent descending back down on to planet earth. First through the volcanic deserts, and then into the sub and bush of the typical NZ back country. We made sure to stop by the amazing new Waihohonu hut which was nothing short of a mansion compared to the previous one. The rest of the day flowed by as we walked under a blanket of grey, mountain shrouding clouds. Although on a clear day the hike over the moor like terrain would have given surrounding panoramic views, ours seemed to transport us back to memories of the dull Yorkshire Moors that seemed to drag a bit. We were glad when the roof of our hostel for the night appeared over the shrubs and we knew we had finished our last multiday NZ adventure.

Looking back across the moorland

Lucy and I both agreed that even with the less than ideal weather Tongariro Northern Circuit was one of our best NZ adventures. This was because it was so different to what we had experienced before this trek. On top of the unique volcanic landscape, the trail had variety on offer; well maintained paths, staircases, ridges, scree and the option to venture onto two summits. With craters, lakes, deserts, ridges, moors and native bush, all flowing one into the next. This isn't like the Fiordland great walks, where excellent paths lead from one view to another, this trail takes you into the views and literally the centre of a volcano. A truly amazing hike that is near the very top of my NZ experiences.

Unfortunately though, this unique and amazing journey has spread its fame and has become one of the most popular trails in NZ. This means that everyone wants to come and experience this other worldly place and the numbers are on the increase. This in itself isn't a problem, as people on the trail tend to spread out and everyone is generally friendly. The problems occur when dozens of people tackle Mt Ngauruhoe's steep scree covered slopes at the same time. Although the ranger at the hut warned us on falling rocks from people and the mountain, not all people stop at the hut and are unfortunately misinformed on the dangers and mechanics of scree. We witnessed another 'tourist' get hit by a rock and even after some advice continued to put themselves in harms way. An accident waiting to happen.

Another problem is with increased numbers comes increased statistics. As we descended from Emerald Lakes, we came across an unfortunate dislocated ankle. Luckily an experienced party member was sorting the well equipped team out. The fella was probably bored stiff of passerby's running through the first aid procedures when we came a long and started the tick list ourselves. After he explained everything (probably for the tenth time) we concluded that all we could do is offer to help with kit and one cold member of the group and set off towards the hut with some of the group. Just another unfortunate statistic that could have happened anywhere.

Although there were negatives, the positives far outweigh them and have given us a great experience. This trip has definitely been one of my best experiences of tramping in New Zealand and if the negatives hadn't happened, it would have been the best, hands down.

New Zealand's most climbed mountain: Mt Taranaki

Mt Taranaki from near the car park

The volcanic, 2515 metre summit of Mt Taranaki dominates the skyline from New Plymouth and the surrounding coast. This easily accessible alpine peak has been dubbed 'the most climbed peak in NZ' and rightfully so. Although it spends most of its time hidden in the clouds, the impressive view of the volcanic cone, standing above the farmland would get any wannabe hiker dreaming of a summit attempt. Luckily for us we had a cloud free morning to soak up the giant views.

Along with the normal European first ascent, Mt Taranaki has a deep Maori legacy. Mt Taranaki is said to have once lived further east within the tribe of the other volcanoes. Whilst there, Taranaki fell for a pretty little hill called Pihanga, who unfortunately was also the lover of Mt Tongariro. Just like all other love struck blokes, the two volcanoes had a big battle and Taranaki fled to the east. On it's way, Taranaki carved the deep Whanganui valley, filling it with his tears and forming the river which is now the home to the very popular Whanganui canoe river journey. Due to his sorrow and shame, Taranaki is said to spend most of his time hidden behind the clouds.

Our first view of Mt Taranaki was from state highway 45 as we made our way towards New Plymouth. This giant mass, dwarfed the surrounding countryside, and even though the summit was hidden by cloud we could tell the peak stretched far into the sky. The weather was set to improve the day after, but from the encircling surf highway the dark mass had little promise.

Waking early after the persistent thunderstorm to clear blue skies and an impressive view of our objective for the day, motivation was at an all time high. Clear skies and low winds, this was the time to tackle the mountain if there ever was one. This knowledge had obviously been triggered in a fair few heads that morning. I wasn't counting but we estimated on the way down that we saw close to a hundred people going for the summit that day. Although that's nothing compared to the Alps and European ranges, for NZ were fifteen seems like a lot, this felt like grand central station.

Lingering cloud

8-10 hours return, is the suggested time the summit track takes. Clearly marked on finger posts at the car park, the less daunting summit looks almost like you could reach out and touch it. The ascent is split into three separate stages; lush forest, alpine shrub and volcanic rock and despite some descriptions, it's well marked and trodden. The steep climbing means that height is gained quickly and before we knew it we were above the clouds, rewarding us with big views across to Mt Ruapehu. Shortly after our views the cloud closed in, offering us the pleasure of a cooler and wetter ascent.

Big views north

Mt Taranaki also has a darker side. To complement the mountain as NZ most climbed, Mt Taranaki is also one of NZ's most deadliest. So far 88 people have lost their lives on the slopes, although compared to Mt Cooks 230, this is still regarded as one of the top killers. This is due to a number of factor's; accessibility, under preparedness, popularity and the quickly changing weather and so far we had seen nearly all of these factor's.

Steep staircase over volcanic scree

Scrambling into a volcanic crater has got to be one of my more surreal experiences. Even though the mountain is dormant, standing in an amphitheatre surrounded by rock peaks in thick cloud was an experience I'll remember. Reaching the summit the psychological high of climbing our first volcano meant that we were so preoccupied that we missed a summit selfie. Which probably would have ended up with all the other anticlimactic misty/cloud summit shots I have hidden away on the computer, so it's probably not a bad thing.

Our world for a few hours

A clearing in the cloud on the final ridge

A cracking climb, that with the right conditions and weather, can give a truly amazing experience and a view I can only dream of. On our way down, just as quickly as it came in, the cloud parted for a brief spell, giving us views to the summit and the swirling mass of clouds below.

One magical moment.

This meant that the sun was above us and cloud below. Casting our shadow's onto the grey below us and forming a natural phenomena I have longed to see. A Brocken Spectre. Derived from the German for breaking into ghost, this phenomena has haunted mountaineers around the world. Caused by the light falling on the water particle's in such a way that forms a rainbow around the person's shadow head. Only seen by the shadows caster, the brocken Spectre is a personal memory.

Colourful halo round my head

A memorial trip that is worth it's title of most climbed peak in NZ. 

Killing time in the mountains

500 km and 6 days, is what separated us from Peel forest and Te Anau, our next planned adventure in the form of the The Milford track and the whether was looking like a mixed bag.
The weather was looking good for a day at Mt Cook and we couldn't resist a view of 'The Cloud Piercer', so headed along a very scenic road, which traversed the shores of Lake Pukaki towards the seamlessly increasing lump of Mt Cook.
$20 brought us a campspot at the end of the road with a 360 degree mountain vista; Mt Wakefield, Mt Oliver, Mt Cook and Mt Sefton, cocooned us with an alpine evening glow from their glaciers, ridges and summit.

Mount Cook 

Mt Cook

A startling alarm clock woke us early with the rumbling and crashes of the steep icefall from the Tuckett Glacier, below Mt Sefton. With the illusion of being able to reach out and touch the cascading snow and ice, gave us a 10 by 3 kilometre TV screen as we sat, cooked and ate breakfast.

Alarm clock, in the form of Mt Sefton Icefall

We had a forecast of one fine day, turning into 100kph winds and rain for two days, and after researching most of the classic two day trips from the village we managed to settle on two different day walks. Lucy went for a pleasant walk to Kea view point and the Hooker Glacier viewing area, spotting ice bergs, Mount Cook Buttercups and bouncing on suspension bridges. I must have picked the shorter straw and went for the endless staircase up to The Mueller hut, but managed a traverse of the fake summit of Mount Oliver, needless to say we both had amazing views and spent ten minutes showcasing our photos to each other.

Iceberg

Swing bridge

Mt Oliver ridge

So with the weather turning, we decided to head to Wanaka and see what we could find to entertain us for the next couple of days, and we found a bit more than a couple of days worth of entertainment...
Wanaka was described to us before we left the UK as having the "Wild West sorta' feeling", but when we rocked up and into a hot tub at the Mount Aspiring holiday park, we lost any wild west expectations. Googling, skimming lonely planet and a long browse through the mountaineering guide book, raised the expectation of the chilled out, lake side town to a new level and we seemed to be bombarded with single and multi day trips, but of course the weather and maybe the hot tub and sauna dictated our days. Two days chilling and exploring the town and one day hiking up a steep slope with ever expanding views. Managing to ascend the height of the UKs highest mountain, Ben Nevis without even reaching the summit of the very impressive looking and aptly named Shark Tooth Peak, but decided to call it a day at 1,685m and head for the tub...

Wanaka Frisbee golf

Mt RobRoy

Unlike Queenstown, it looks like Wanaka is going to leave a burning desire to return and explore the hidden and not so hidden adventures in the area, with a list that's already too long, we'll have to make sure our next time here is a lot longer than we first considered.

Wanaka tree